Located just off of Highway 50 in the mountain town of Strawberry, Lover’s Leap, for most people, is a large granite cliff you might notice from the highway on your way up to Lake Tahoe. But for climbers, those same vertical granite cliffs, nearing 600 feet high at some points, are a trad climbing paradise. The hundreds of vertical cracks are crossed by even more horizontal dikes, turning really difficult routes into fun and challenging routes at mostly moderate grades. Royal Robbins in his 1976 Tahoe Guide said, “With the lone exception of Tahquitz Rock, Lover’s Leap has the best selection of concentrated free climbs in California…No one cliff even in Yosemite has Lover’s Leap concentration…with such quality and variety.” If a high concentration of easy and moderate trad routes sounds good, than this Lovers Leap climbing guide is for you.
Something for everyone
Possibly the best thing about Lover’s Leap: everything is within walking distance from the campground—whether it’s climbing, food, groceries, supplies (climbing and camping), a shower, or a beer. We’ve stayed there for over a week and not once moved our car. And our Lovers Leap climbing guide covers everything you need to know.
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Camping at Lover’s Leap
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Depending on snowfall, Lovers Leap Campground is usually open from mid-May to November. They don’t take reservations—it’s first come, first served. And with only 21 sites, it fills up quickly on weekends. Get there early or prepare to make friends who you can share a site with. There are also day-use parking spots which a lot of people end up parking in and just sleeping in their cars. While this is technically not allowed, we’ve never heard of anyone getting in trouble. Here’s an overview of the campground basics:
| Fee per night | $10 |
| Day use parking per day | $5 |
| Checkout time | 1pm |
| Maximum stay | 14 days |
| Parking spots per site | 1 spot (not next to site) |
| Bathrooms | 2 pit toilets |
| Water | 1 spigot near bathrooms |
| Showers | No |
| RV Sites | None |
| Group sites | None |
If you want a spot for the weekend, show up as early as possible on Friday. During the week is substantially less busy. Most of the sites are at least a 50-100 yard walk from the parking spot so be prepared to carry your gear. Most sites have a fire ring, bear box, and picnic table.
Check out: A Guide to Building Your Trad Rack
Eating
The most common place to eat nearby is Strawberry Lodge. An easy 10 minute walk from the campground, you will see the Lodge on your way driving in. It has a restaurant and bar which has pretty good food at a reasonable price. They also offer showers! Ask at the bar or front desk. For $5 you can use the Lodge’s shower (they even provide towels, soap, and shampoo). While nothing fancy, they are very welcoming to climbers and with hot meals, cold beer, and showers, what more could you want?
If driving isn’t an issue, our favorite place to eat is The Divided Sky, about 15 minutes up the 50 from Strawberry. Part bar, part cafe, part restaurant, it’s got delicious healthy options in a casual and comfortable environment. Very much a local hangout, it stays open late.
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Supplies
Strawberry Station is your one stop shop for all your supply needs. Just across the road from Strawberry Lodge, it’s barely a 10 minute walk from the campground. They have camping supplies, basic groceries, a surprisingly good beer and wine selection, as well as a pretty impressive climbing and gear shop. Ask for Squirrel, the owner and local legend who can give any information you might need for the area including climbing beta, rest day activities, or just a good story. If you buy some burgers and beers and ask nicely, he might let you use the BBQ out on the patio.
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Lovers Leap Climbing Guide
Lover’s Leap has weeks worth of climbing, and a little bit of something for everyone. The Hogsback area has lower angle easy routes that are great for beginning trad climbers (What’s Trad Climbing?). Classics like Bear’s Reach and Corrugation Corner are only 5.7, but are still super fun for anyone. And there are plenty of challenging 5.10 and 5.11 routes for the crushers out there. For those who don’t enjoy trad climbing, there is even a small amount of bouldering and sport climbing. Below are our favorite moderate classics, sorted by grade. Check out our favorite guidebook South Lake Tahoe Climbing or Mountain Project for more information about the different climbing routes.
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| Climb | Area | Style | Grade | Pitches |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Knapsack Crack | Hogsback | Trad | 5.5 | 2 |
| The Farce | Lower Buttress | Trad | 5.5 | 2 |
| Deception | Hogsback | Trad | 5.6 | 2 |
| Bear's Reach | East Wall | Trad | 5.7 | 3 |
| Corrugation Corner | Main Wall | Trad | 5.7 | 3 |
| Surrealistic Pillar | Lower Buttress | Trad | 5.7 | 3 |
| Hogwild | Hogwild | Trad/Sport | 5.7 | 1 |
| Haystack | East Wall | Trad | 5.8 | 3 |
| The Groove | Lower Buttress | Trad | 5.8 | 2 |
| It's Better with Bacon | Hogwild | Trad | 5.8 | 5 |
| Fantasia | East Wall | Trad | 5.9 R | 3 |
| The Line | East Wall | Trad | 5.9 | 3 |
| Traveler Buttress | Main Wall | Trad | 5.9 | 4 |
| Eagle Buttress, Right Side | Central Wall | Trad | 5.10a | 5 |
| Hospital Corner | West Wall | Trad | 5.10a | 2 |
| Nirvana | West Wall | Sport | 5.11+ | 2 |
| R.I.P. | Main Wall | Sport | 5.12a | 1 |
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Rest Day Activities
Swimming holes
There’s a great swimming hole just past the bridge as you’re walking from the campground towards Strawberry Lodge. Once you cross the bridge, immediately turn right and walk along the river. About 100 yards up river you’ll find a cool little beach and swimming hole. While the path there is technically on private property, I’ve spoken with the owners—they were very friendly and fine with people walking by their place. Strawberry Lodge also has a great lawn behind it that goes right up to the river. There’s also easy access to a swimming area with a few logs to sit on.
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Strawberry Lodge Bar
An obvious one. How else to spend a rest day than eating, drinking, and showering? They even have a lobby with super comfy couches and board games. Sit back, read, play games, and relax after your shower.
Local hiking
Check out a list of local hikes in Eldorado National Forest.
South Lake Tahoe
If you’re willing to drive about 30 minutes, check out things to do in South Lake Tahoe.
Hope you enjoyed our Lovers Leap climbing guide. Did we miss something? Have any great tips or recommendations? Let us know in the comments below!
