Seneca Rocks, West Virginia is the closest, best, (and only) trad multi-pitch climbing in the Mid-Atlantic region. If you’re looking for adventurous trad or alpine climbing near the DMV, Seneca Rocks is the place to climb. With its good camping/lodging options, decent food, and drivability (you can drive there and back in a single day), Seneca Rocks is the place for climbers looking to rack up and hone their trad climbing abilities. Our Seneca Rocks climbing guide has everything you need to know about where to stay, how to prepare, what to climb, and more!
Where to stay at Seneca Rocks
Yokum’s Vacationland
- Yes, that’s its real name!
- Family Cabins: 1-4 people; rooms with HOT TUBS $200/night
- Couple’s Cabins: 2 people; $80-$125/night
- Camping: Two campgrounds; first come first serve, $8/person
Seneca Shadows Campground
- Good for large groups
- Fee: $17-$35
- Amenities: Flush toilets, showers, water spigots, walk-up, nonelectric, electric, RV, and group sites, campfire rings
Where to eat at Seneca Rocks
Front Porch Restaurant – There aren’t many options in this remote little mountain town, but for the best view of Seneca this is the place to eat!
Yokum’s Grocery Store and Deli – For counter service food that’ll be ready pretty quickly!
Where to get supplies at Seneca Rocks
Just like your restaurant options, food and other camping supplies are available at the two general stores. Conveniently they are located right next to each other.
Yokum’s Grocery Store and Deli
Seneca Rocks Climbing Gear
Named in honor of an iconic 25 ft. spire located in the Gunsight Notch at Seneca, that fell in 1987, The Gendarme has a vast selection of gear from climbing shoes to ropes, and everything in between.
Read more: 3 Climbing hitches every climber should know
Seneca Rocks Guiding Services
There are several fantastic options for hiring a guide at Seneca Rocks. All three guide services below require their instructors to be AMGA or PCGI certified.
Seneca Rocks climbing guide
About the rock: Seneca Rocks consists of erosion-resistant white/gray Tuscarora quartzite. In 1943-1944, as part of the West Virginia Maneuver Area, the 10th Mountain Division of the U.S. Army used Seneca Rocks to train mountain troops in assault climbing–preparing them for action in the Apennines of Italy. They left behind an estimated 75,000 soft iron pitons, some of which can still be found on the rocks, inspiring one of the faces to be named “The Face of a Thousand Pitons”. Both the West and East Faces on the North and South Peak have single and multipitch trad routes up to 300 ft. tall. There are an infinite number of ways to connect climbs with variations, and can make for some extremely fun link-ups. The South Peak of Seneca Rocks is only accessible by technical climbing, making it the only “true peak” on the East Coast of the United States!
RELATED: Choosing the best rock climbing shoes
Seneca Rocks Guidebook
Seneca: A Climbers Guide is the definitive Seneca Rocks climbing guide for the area.
Climbing strategy
Keep in mind Seneca was established significantly earlier than many other trad climbing destinations, and is known for humbling many trad leaders their first time out. There is also very little to no cell phone service, which means basic self-rescue skills are a must, as well as somewhat tricky approaches and descents involving good route-finding abilities and confidence moving through 3rd and 4th class terrain. Because of the old-school grades and alpine-style nature of the Seneca, I’d encourage you to start a couple grades lower than you would at other climbing areas before moving to harder projects.
Climbing gear: Best climbing packs 2021
Seneca Rocks peak climbing season
Peak climbing season is April through October, where the high temperatures range from 60 to 88 degrees. Keep in mind that humidity can often be a factor to consider, leading to many low-friction days. The good news is that the rock dries out very rapidly. And because of the sharp peak, you can climb entirely in the shade (or sun) by climbing on the West Face or East Face. My personal recommendation during the warmer months is to start early on the West Face, plan to summit around noon, then rappel to the East Face just as the sun passes over. During colder months, start on the sunny East Face to stay warm!
Read more: Outdoor EDC: The ten adventure essentials you should always carry
Climbs at Seneca Rocks
Check out our Seneca Rocks climbing guide list of classic climbs. We’re only mentioning climbs that we’ve done (some multiple times!) and feel are absolute classics worthy of making the trip to Seneca Rocks.
| Climb | Area | Grade | Pitches |
| Old Man’s Route | South Peak – West Face | 5.2 | 4 |
| Skyline Traverse | South Peak – East Face – SE Corner | 5.3 | 3 |
| Gunsight to South Peak | South Peak – West Face | 5.4 | 2 |
| Conn’s West | South Peak – West Face | 5.4 | 3 |
| Candy Corner | South End | 5.6 | 1 |
| Scuttle | Lower Slabs | 5.7 | 1 |
| Ecstasy | South End | 5.7 | 3 |
| Green Wall | South Peak – West Face | 5.7 | 2 |
| Pleasant Overhangs | South Peak – West Face | 5.7 | 3 |
| West Pole | South Peak – West Face | 5.7+ | 3 |
| Alcoa Presents | South Peak – East Face | 5.8 | 1 |
| Discrepancy | Lower Slabs | 5.8 | 1 |
| Triple S+ | South Peak – West Face | 5.8+ | 2 |
| Marshall’s Madness | South Peak – West Face | 5.9 | 3 |
| Crack of Dawn | South Peak – West Face | 5.10a | 1 |
Check out: Best American road trip books
Seneca Rocks climbing guide rest day activities
Hiking
The South Peak is only accessible via technical climbing. But, if you’re down for a steep rugged hike, then you can hike to the top of the North Peak! Check out the All Trails page for Seneca Rocks for more information.
Caving
Smoke Hole Caverns and Seneca Caverns offer a bunch of different guided cave options for those looking for an underground adventure.
Swimming
West Virginia certainly has its fair share of great swimming holes. There are multiple spots at the base of the rocks to swim after enjoying a day out climbing!
RELATED: 6 Reasons why climbers make better lovers
Conclusion
Seneca Rocks is a fantastic destination for those looking to have a climbing adventure. With accessible lodging, food, and rest day activities, Seneca is a fantastic spot for alpine-start day trips or Weekend Warrior getaways. Whether you are there to hire a guiding service and climb for the first time or a trad climbing veteran in the mood for an ego check, Seneca Rocks is a truly unique crag that will leave you with many memories and a desire to keep coming back.
Anything you think we should add to our Seneca Rocks climbing guide? Any stories or pro tips you want to share? We want to hear from you! Comment below.
If you enjoyed our Seneca Rocks climbing guide, check out our other Destination guides, more climbing content, or you might like one of these:
- Weekend Warriors Guide to the New River Gorge
- How to Make Great Camp Coffee
- Outdoor Adventure Gift Buying Guide
- 42 Outdoor Adventure Festivals Across North America
- Best Headlamps for Every Type of Adventure
- 10 Lessons to Consider Before Quitting Your Job and Hitting the Road
