For many climbers, their approach shoes are the piece of climbing equipment they wear the most. A good pair of approach shoes gives you the comfort of a hiking shoe with the grippy security of a climbing shoe. We scoured the top gear review sites for the most popular approach shoes and looked into each pair by checking user reviews on every major online retailer. Then we tasked our ambassadors with testing out various approach shoes all across the United States during their adventures and reporting back what they found. Don’t waste time jumping between browser tabs trying to wrap your head around the different options. This guide gives you the very best of the best when it comes to approach shoes.
We’ve broken the guide into five categories: Best All Around Shoe, Light and Fast, Best Value, Bad Weather Performers, and Best “Trail to Tinder”.
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Best All-Around Approach Shoes
A difficult category to define. With so many different types of approaches, how do you get a shoe that will work for all of them? These shoes strike a good balance between hiking comfort and climbing ability. Not too heavy to carry during the climb, but not so light as to offer no support. These shoes are the everyday workhorses for guides and experts across the nation.
Five Ten Guide Tennie
Price: $140
Upper: Leather
Weight: 1lb. 13oz
Rubber: Stealth C-4
Pros: The classic all-around approach shoe that both hikes and climbs exceptionally well.
Cons: Not breathable, stiff sole takes awhile to break in and decreases climbing sensitivity.
Buy Now Men’s: REI Ι Backcountry Ι Moosejaw
Buy Now Women’s: REI Ι Backcountry Ι Moosejaw
An obvious choice for the top spot in the All-Around category. Created in 1985, it was the first shoe specifically marketed as an approach shoe, and every new model since has become an instant classic. It hikes well, it climbs well, and it’s all-leather upper adds great durability. Even better, it comes at a great price. Whether this is your first approach shoe or your tenth, the Guide Tennie will get the job done.
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La Sportiva TX3
Price: $135
Upper: Polymesh, PU Techlite rand
Weight: 1lb. 9oz.
Rubber: Vibram MegaGrip Traverse
Pros: Lightweight and breathable with incredible climbing and hiking performance.
Cons: Mesh upper lessens the shoe’s durability.
Buy Now Men’s: REI Ι La Sportiva Ι Backcountry Ι Moosejaw
Buy Now Women’s: REI Ι La Sportiva Ι Backcountry Ι Moosejaw
The newest contender for a “quiver of one” approach shoe. They hike and climb as well as the Guide Tennie but are lighter and more breathable due to the mesh upper. This might decrease durability slightly compared to the leather of the Guide Tennies, but they’re slightly cheaper. You see these shoes at every local crag and gym and if La Sportiva keeps improving this model, they could easily become the new top all-around approach shoe. You’ll see the rest of the TX series later in this guide in the Light and Fast (TX2) and Poor Weather Performers (TX4) categories.
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Best Value Approach Shoes
Buying another pair of shoes on top of climbing shoes can be prohibitively expensive for some. This category gets you the most bang for the buck.
Scarpa Crux
Price: $125
Upper: Suede, Mesh
Weight: 1lb. 11oz
Rubber: Vibram Vertical
Pros: Lightweight, inexpensive, and comfortable.
Cons: Climbing rubber not amazing.
Buy Now Men’s: REI Ι Backcountry Ι Moosejaw
Buy Now Women’s: REI Ι Backcountry Ι Moosejaw
If the Scarp Crux had slightly better rubber they’d make it into the Best All-Around category. But despite that, the Crux is a great value and our top pick for this category. A great hiking shoe, testers love how comfortable they are right out of the box. Reviews are very good on this shoe, especially for those looking for more hiking comfort than climbing ability. If every penny counts, this shoe will perform for you at a great price.
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La Sportiva Boulder X
Price: $110
Upper: Leather
Weight: 2lb. 2oz.
Rubber: Vibram Idro-Grip V-Smear
Pros: Sticky rubber and very durable at a great price.
Cons: Heavy, bulky, and not very breathable.
Buy Now Men’s: REI Ι La Sportiva Ι Backcountry Ι Moosejaw
Buy Now Women’s: REI Ι La Sportiva Ι Backcountry Ι Moosejaw
The Boulder X are actually $10 less than the Crux, but the weight and bulk of the Boulder X made them lose the top spot. But for some, the weight and bulk might be pros. The leather upper and beefy construction make these very durable and stable hiking shoes, while the rubber sole outperforms the Crux in many ways. If low price is the absolute most important thing for you, the Boulder Xs are the way to go.
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Light and Fast Approach Shoes
For some climbs, the primary concern is weight and pack size. While a big hiking shoe might be nice for the approach, carrying the extra weight during the climb is annoying—especially if you’ll be attaching your approach shoes to your harness.
La Sportiva TX2
Price: $130
Upper: Polyester Mesh
Weight: 1lb. 3oz.
Rubber: Vibram Mega-Grip
Pros: Lightweight, compressible, easily attached to a harness with the built in combo cord.
Cons: Lacks durability, flexibility limits edging ability, not great for long hikes.
Buy Now Men’s: La Sportiva Ι Backcountry Ι Moosejaw
Buy Now Women’s: Backcountry Ι Moosejaw
The lightweight version of the TX series excels in exactly what it was intended for: fast and light approaches. A little over a pound, the TX2’s can easily attach to a harness with the new C2 Combo cord built into the heel. This strap holds the shoes tightly together to make a smaller profile while attached. They grip extremely well on rock and are surprisingly comfortable given how thin and light they are. Overall, for their intended purpose the TX2’s are top in their class.
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Scarpa Iguana
Price: $120
Upper: Polyester Mesh
Weight: 9oz.
Rubber: Vibram Reptilla MG
Pros: Super lightweight, breathable, and compressible.
Cons: Minimal support, lacks durability, open design allows debris into shoes.
Buy Now Men’s: Backcountry Ι Moosejaw Ι Amazon
Buy Now Women’s: Backcountry Ι Moosejaw Ι Amazon
These are the lightest of the lightweight, coming in at only 9oz. Whether attached to your harness or shoved into your pack, you’ll barely notice them. As is the case with any lightweight shoe, the Scarpa Iguanas lack durability and protection due to the very thin polyester upper. Also, the design of the tongue allows sand and debris to get into the shoe very easily. But reviewers loved how these climb with ultra sticky Vibram rubber—the Iguanas are a great option in the fast and light category.
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Bad Weather Approach Shoes
Some approaches are wet. Some even involve snow. If you want your approach shoes to be ready for any conditions, these poor weather performers are exactly what you need.
Salewa Mountain Trainer GTX
Price: $199
Upper: Suede Leather with Gore-tex Lining
Weight: 2lbs. 9oz.
Rubber: Vibram Alpine Approach
Pros: Supportive, waterproof, and durable.
Cons: Heavy, bulky, bad at smearing, stiff and uncomfortable in easy terrain.
Buy Now Men’s: Backcountry Ι Moosejaw
Buy Now Women’s: Backcountry Ι Moosejaw Ι Amazon
The Mountain Trainers from Salewa are a waterproof hiking boot in approach shoe form. For light alpine or snowy approaches with heavy packs, these shoes excel. The heaviest shoe on this list, these are going to be uncomfortable, stiff, and feel heavy for easier approaches. But if you put your approach shoes through the toughest conditions, the Mountain Trainer GTX are for you.
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La Sportiva TX4 Mid GTX
Price: $190
Upper: Leather with Gore-tex Lining
Weight: 2lbs.
Rubber: Vibram Megagrip
Pros: Very supportive, lightweight, and they climb surprisingly well.
Cons: Overkill for most climbers, they’re basically minimalist mountaineering boots.
Buy Now: REI Ι La Sportiva Ι Backcountry Ι Moosejaw
A cross between a mountaineering boot and an approach shoe, the TX4 Mid GTXs provide maximum support and protection—though keep in mind that they don’t have the insulation or stiffness of a mountaineering boot. These are great for approaches that fall somewhere between lightweight alpinism and mountaineering. For steep snowy approaches or in situations where you might want a mountaineering boot for a part of it, these do really well.
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Best “Trail to Tinder” Approach Shoes
Climbers are busy people. Fitting in a quick climb before a date wouldn’t be totally out of character. Or maybe you just like to always be prepared for a quick buildering session downtown. Either way, climbers like to look good, and if you can look good with sticky rubber on your feet, what’s not to love? Here are the most fashionable approach shoes out there.
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Evolv Cruzer Psyche
Price: $75
Upper: Cotton canvas
Weight: 1lb. 1oz.
Rubber: Evolv Trax
Pros: Ultra lightweight, inexpensive, good climbing ability, and fashionable.
Cons: Very thin sole, not very durable.
Buy Now Men’s: Backcountry Ι Moosejaw Ι Amazon
Buy Now Women’s: Backcountry Ι Moosejaw Ι Amazon
The Evolv Cruzer line (Classic, Psyche, and Slip-On) excel in multiple ways: they’re inexpensive, lightweight, and they look good in a non-climbing setting. Paired with a casual outfit the Cruzers don’t stand out like most approach shoes would if you’re out on the town. You could walk straight from the trail to a first date! Although we might recommend showering first.
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Shoe | Price | Buy Now |
---|---|---|
Five Ten Guide Tennie | $140 | Men's: REI Backcountry Moosejaw Women's: REI Backcountry Moosejaw |
La Sportiva TX3 | $135 | Men's: REI Backcountry Moosejaw Women's: Backcountry Moosejaw |
Scarpa Crux | $120 | Men's: REI Backcountry Moosejaw Women's: REI Backcountry Moosejaw |
La Sportiva Boulder X | $110 | Men's: REI Backcountry Moosejaw Women's: REI Backcountry Moosejaw |
La Sportiva TX2 | $130 | Men's: Backcountry Moosejaw Women's: Backcountry Moosejaw |
Scarpa Iguana | $120 | Men's: Backcountry Moosejaw Amazon Women's: Backcountry Moosejaw Amazon |
Salewa MTN Trainer GTX | $199 | Men's: Backcountry Moosejaw Amazon Women's: Backcountry Moosejaw Amazon |
La Sportiva TX4 Mid GTX | $190 | REI Backcountry Moosejaw |
Evolv Cruzer Psyche | $75 | Men's: Backcountry Moosejaw Amazon Women's: Backcountry Moosejaw Amazon |
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