Crack climbing…you love it or you hate it. And that might change depending on the day, or even the individual move. Crack climbing is a unique form of climbing that requires specialized technique, determination, and a particular form of masochism. There’s a certain amount of pain and suffering that’s inherent to crack climbing. But one of the easiest ways to both lessen the pain and improve your crack climbing is by getting a pair of the best crack climbing gloves.
Crack climbing gloves used to be hard to find and seen as gimmicky. Fast forward to today and they are now an incredible asset for an outdoor climber whether you are training hand strength at home or sending El Cap. There are several really great options on the market, each one offering unique features depending on what types of cracks you climb and how frequently you might need to use the gloves. Below are our favorite crack climbing gloves.
Best crack climbing gloves
Surprisingly, not too many companies make crack climbing gloves—the majority of gloves you’ll see are either from Ocun or Outdoor Research. But, the Black Diamond Crack Gloves just onto market as well, and they actually took over from Outdoor Research as our best all around crack glove. And there are other options (and we’ll mention all of them) but those three companies basically have a monopoly on the market—largely because there just aren’t a lot of companies making crack gloves. Let’s dive in and take a look:
RELATED: How to become a trad climber: A beginner’s guide
Best All-Around: Black Diamond Crack Gloves
Price: $39.95
Weight: 32.8 grams
Sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL
Materials: Synthetic suede + adhesive rubber
Buy Now: Black Diamond |Â Amazon
Overall impression:
According to Black Diamond, they had one goal in mind when creating the Black Diamond Crack Gloves: “to create the best fitting, highest performance crack gloves on the market” and we think they have absolutely done it. They look like a tape glove, and perform just as beautifully. From our field-testing, these gloves perform incredibly well and win our award for Best All-Around crack climbing glove. From their 3D patterning-based fit, to the flat-stitched pattern resulting in a super low profile (less than 1 mm thick!), these gloves take a beating while still being thin enough to not drastically change one’s hand size. Finally, they are the ONLY crack glove on the market to provide thumb protection! Us small-handed folks that fist jam more than your average climber are extremely thankful. The Black Diamond Crack Gloves are the crack climbing gloves that many people have been waiting for.
You might also like: How to Become a Trad Climber
Best for Heavy Use: Ocun Crack Gloves
Price: $45
Weight: 57 grams
Sizes: XS, S, M, L, XL
Materials: Microfiber stretch suede + adhesive rubber
Buy Now:Â Amazon
Overall impression:
While this Czech climbing company is relatively unknown in other parts of the world, their crack gloves are seen everywhere. And for good reason—they’re well-designed, beefy gloves that protect your hands no matter how rough the climbing. The strap is covered by a layer of rubber, making these a super strong and tough option for crack climbing gloves. Something to keep in mind: compared to the Outdoor Research Splitter Gloves the Ocun are thick. If you’re worried about a crack glove making your hand too thick to fit into certain crack sizes, you might be better off with the OR Splitter Gloves. On the other hand, if you need a burly glove that makes even the sharpest rock painless, the Ocun Crack Gloves are just right. For long gym training sessions, these are our go-to crack climbing glove.
Read More: Best Climbing Nut Tools 2021
Best for light use: Outdoor Research Splitter Gloves
Price: $40
Weight: 31 grams
Sizes: XS, S/M, L/XL
Materials: Synthetic suede + synthetic leather
Compare Prices: REI Ι Backountry Ι Amazon
Overall impression:
The OR Splitter Gloves were designed in partnership with climbing legend Hans Florine. Their thin, anatomical design provide the benefits of a glove while almost feeling like you’re not wearing anything at all. And while they’re lighter and thinner than the Ocun, they still last a long time and can take a beating. Because of their smaller profile and thinner design, the OR Splitter Gloves also provide better tactile feedback, much like a thin-soled climbing shoe. For thinner cracks and those looking to save weight the OR Splitter Gloves are the way to go. If you climb in an area with particularly sharp rock (e.g. Joshua Tree) or wider cracks, you might want to go with the Ocun Crack Gloves.
Check this out: Best Approach Shoes 2021
Other Options
Now there are a few other options on the market that we have not tried, with the most promising being the Grade VII Hand Jam (link below). Several others are linked as well, but in our honest opinion, don’t stand up to the gloves reviewed above. Check them out for yourself!
Grade VII Hand Jam
ClimbX Super Crack Gloves
Green Gear Hand Jammies
Singing Rock Craggy Jamming Gloves
RELATED: Buying your first trad rack: The comprehensive guide
BYO crack climbing gloves out of climbing tape
But wait…there’s more! Looking for the most personalized option? Want to look particularly badass? Then make your own crack climbing gloves out of climbing tape! With tons of ways to tape your hands, you can find the way that fits your particular need. They take a bit more time to make, can really hurt to take off (for those with hairy hands/arms), and over time it can be more expensive to keep buying tape. But the fit is extremely precise, the thickness is up to you, and if they’re well built you can even save them for multiple sessions. Check out these articles to see a few of our favorite methods of building your own crack gloves out of climbing tape.
Steph Davis’ How to Tape for Crack Climbing
Climbing Magazine’s article on better tape gloves
Friction Labs presents multiple crack climbing taping options
Read More: Best Climbing Rope 2021
Conclusion
Finding the best crack climbing gloves for your needs shouldn’t be too difficult. If you’re not sure, buy some climbing tape and the glove above that best fits your climbing objectives. You’ll likely find a different use for each type, from thin finger jams to burly off-widths. And if you don’t want to spend all that money, you can always try out the budget option: no gloves! The truly original way to crack climb, build up those callouses through repetition and you’ll have a built-in crack climbing glove!
