So you want to start rock climbing. Or maybe you’ve been climbing for awhile, and using rented or borrowed shoes. Or maybe your shoes are wearing thin, and it’s time for an upgrade. Whatever the reason, finding the right pair of climbing shoes is super important, but there are ton of options out there, and it can be tricky. Whether you’re trying to figure out if you need asymmetric lasts or unlined leather, or what thickness of rubber is best, our guide will walk you through choosing climbing shoes.
First we look at the different shapes, materials, closure systems, and types of rubber of climbing shoes. Second, we’ll briefly talk about the proper fit of climbing shoes. Third, we provide a chart of the recommended type of shoe for different use categories. Finally, check out our list of favorite shoes for every type of climbing.
Climbing shoe construction and features
Climbing shoes have four main parts. All four are important to understand when choosing climbing shoes. These parts are 1. the overall shape, 2. the materials used, 3. the closure system, and 4. the type of rubber.
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1. Shape
Climbing shoe shapes can be broken down into three broad categories: flat, moderate, and aggressive. You can best see the shape of a shoe by looking at it from the side.
Flat
Flat shoes are the most comfortable. By letting your foot and toes to lie flat, you can wear these shoes for longer periods of time without discomfort. They’re generally stiff with thick rubber, giving your foot muscles lots of support. This shape is ideal for beginners or for anyone looking for a comfortable all-day climbing shoe.
Moderate
Moderate shoes have a slight downturn, giving them an added level of performance while still being relatively comfortable. They generally come with thinner and stickier rubber than flat shoes, which improves the feel and grip. These are ideal for slab climbing, crack climbing, harder multi-pitch routes, and some sport climbing routes.
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Aggressive
Aggressive shoes have a sharp downturn. They also usually have an asymmetrical shape (as seen from the bottom) which pushes more force into the big toe for really small foot holds. With very thin, sticky rubber, these shoes are purely focused on performance, not comfort. These are ideal for overhanging sport routes and hard boulder problems both outside and in the gym.
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2. Material
Climbing shoe uppers are made from leather or synthetic material, and sometimes a combination of the two.
Leather
Long lasting, tough, breathable, and less prone to getting stinky than synthetic shoes. Leather shoes generally get more comfortable with time, but can stretch up to a full shoe size after being worn for a while, so make sure to factor that in when buying them. Leather shoes come in many varieties—including those with a synthetic lining that’s intended to limit the amount of stretch, and in a high top design to protect the ankles during crack climbing.
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Synthetic
With little to no stretch, it’s easy to know whether synthetic shoes fit the first time you try them on. The downside is that the fit you start with is what you get in the long run–they don’t form to your foot over time the way leather shoes do. Because they’re less breathable, synthetic shoes tend to make your feet sweat more, and they’re smellier than leather shoes.
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3. Closure system
Climbing shoes come with one of three closure systems: laces, straps, or slip-on. The closure system is an important part of choosing climbing shoes.
Laces
The classic shoe closure method offers the most customization. You can tighten and loosen each area of the shoe as needed to form the most comfortable fit. The downside is the time it takes to sit down and tie and untie them as needed.
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Strap
The velcro strap is an incredibly quick closure method, allowing for a very easy on and off. This make it popular with boulderers and gym climbers who might want to take off or loosen their shoes in between climbs. They don’t allow for quite as much customization in fit as laces, but you can still tighten and loosen as needed.
Slip-on
By far the simplest of all closure systems. Slide them on and you’re good to go. The downside is obviously you cannot tighten or loosen–one fit is all you get. Popular as casual training shoes, slip-ons are less common than laces and strap shoes.
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4. Rubber
Here’s the deal: every company has proprietary rubber that they promise is the stickiest on the market. As you get more into climbing, you might find you prefer one brand over another. Until then, there are two basic concepts about rubber that will help you in choosing climbing shoes: thickness and firmness.
Thickness of rubber
Climbing shoe outsoles comes in a variety of thicknesses. A thick rubber outsole would be in the 4-5.5 mm range, while a thin rubber outsole would be usually 3-4 mm. The thicker the rubber, the longer it should last. A thicker outsole also provides more support for your feet so that your foot muscles don’t tire as quickly. This comes at the cost of sensitivity, or being able to feel the small holds through the shoe—thinner rubber outsoles don’t last as long, but provide greater sensitivity to small footholds. Generally when you start out with climbing it’s a good idea to get a thick rubber outsole. They’ll last a long time and provide your feet plenty of support as you develop the necessary muscles. As you progress, move into a thinner sole for better performance.
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Firmness of rubber
Climbing shoe rubber varies in its firmness. Generally, firmer rubbers last longer but aren’t as sticky. Softer rubbers wear out faster, but are stickier. Firm rubber provides more support, which is good for edging on small holds. Softer rubber is better for techniques like smearing. Start with a firm rubber (usually found on more beginner shoes anyway) and advance into softer rubbers with time.
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Choosing climbing shoes: Finding the right fit
What’s the bottom line? Choosing climbing shoes with the perfect fit can be difficult. Every brand’s sizing is slightly different and even within a single brand, different models fit different. For your first climbing shoe, you want it to fit snugly but not painfully. This means your foot should be flat in the shoe with your toe touching the front, but not curled or painful. Make sure the heel doesn’t slip when you stand on your toes. If it’s an unlined leather shoe, make sure to fit it a bit more snugly.
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Most climbing shoes come in both women’s and men’s versions. Generally the women’s version is just a lower volume shoe—meaning it has a lower cut in the ankle and less volume in the heel cup and forefoot area. For anyone with smaller feet, a women’s shoe could be a great option. Those with wider or larger feet, regardless of gender, should make sure to try on a men’s shoe.
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Recommendations based on use
Now that you understand a bit more about how climbing shoes are constructed and the differences between them, check out our chart for recommendations on our favorite shoes for each use category!
Notes: If a shoe has a women’s and men’s version, we show it. If amended with “Low Volume”, it means the shoe is ideal for those with smaller feet, skinny feet, high arches, or non-prominent heels.
| Beginner's Shoe | Our Favorites: | Price | Buy Now |
|---|---|---|---|
| La Sportiva Tarantulace Men's | $80 | REI | |
| La Sportiva Tarantulace Women's | $80 | REI | |
| Evolv Nighthawk (Men's) | $80 | REI | |
| Evolv Skyhawk (Women's) | $80 | REI | |
| 5.10 Anasazi VCS | $165 | Backcountry | |
| 5.10 Anasazi VCS Low Volume | $165 | Backcountry | |
| Sport Climbing | Our Favorites: | ||
| Evolv Shaman | $160 | REI | |
| Evolv Shaman Low Volume | $150 | Backcountry | |
| Tenaya Tarifa | $165 | Moosejaw | |
| La Sportiva Genius | $195 | REI | |
| Bouldering | Our Favorites: | ||
| La Sportiva Solutions Mens | $180 | REI | |
| La Sportiva Solutions Womens | $180 | REI | |
| Scarpa Instinct VS | $175 | REI | |
| Butora Acro | $154 | Moosejaw | |
| Multi-pitch climbing | Our Favorites: | ||
| Butora Mantra | $145 | Moosejaw | |
| La Sportiva Muira Mens | $165 | REI | |
| La Sportiva Muira Womens | $165 | REI | |
| 5.10 Quantum | $185 | REI | |
| Crack Climbing | Our Favorites: | ||
| Evolv The General | $170 | Moosejaw | |
| Butora Altura | $155 | Moosejaw | |
| La Sportiva TC Pros | $185 | REI |
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