What’s a hitch?
A hitch is a type of knot used to attach rope to an object. In rock climbing hitches are usually used to attach someone or something to the climbing rope. Climbing hitches come in handy in many climbing scenarios, like:
- As backups during rappelling
- In raising and lower systems
- When tethering while building top-rope anchors
- Rescue scenarios
Hitches are generally made from thin (5-7mm) nylon cord that’s tied into a loop. You can either buy specialized loops like the Sterling Hollowblock or create your own by tying the ends of a cord together with a double fishermans knot (for instructions, see this video).
Climbing hitches can also be tied using a cordellette (a longer length of 7-8mm nylon cord commonly used for anchors) or in the case of the klemheist hitch, a sewn runner (a loop of nylon sewn together).
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How to safely tie climbing hitches
Climbing hitches work by wrapping around an object like a climbing rope. When you attach weight to a hitch, it tightens itself around the rope, gripping it using friction–this is why they’re often called “friction hitches.” A hitch is distinct from a knot in that it has to be tied around something–a knot can be tied just to itself.
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For a hitch to grip properly, the number of times you need to wrap the hitch loop around the rope depends on a number of conditions including the rope sizes involved, the materials used, the weight of the load, and even the weather. With so many factors, the best way to know if a hitch will hold is by testing. Because hitches are often used as backups in climbing scenarios, make absolutely sure to test it before you use it. The table below shows some common reasons you might need to wrap a hitch around a rope more or fewer times.
| Reasons for more wraps | Reasons for fewer wraps |
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3 climbing hitches you should know
Warning: Test out all climbing hitches before putting yourself into a dangerous situation where you’re depending on the hitch to hold.
1. PRUSIK
Named for its inventor, Karl Prusik, this hitch was first introduced in an Austrian mountaineering manual in 1931. It’s incredibly effective for rope ascending and for raising and lowering systems—often rescue scenarios or to assist climbers from above.
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The first time I learned about a prusik hitch was while moving up easy 4th class terrain to the top of a rock to rappel from. The guide had set up a safety line in some more exposed sections, and attached everyone with a prusik hitch. I had never seen any type of friction hitch and was blown away by the simplicity and effectiveness of the knot. It’s a classic knot, but for rappelling, it’s been generally replaced with our next hitch, the Autoblok, because the Prusik isn’t releasable under load. This means that once it catches, it’s difficult to loosen the knot unless you can completely take the weight off of it—and if you’re on a vertical wall or hanging in space, this can be nearly impossible.
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2. AUTOBLOCK
Also known as the french prusik, the autoblock’s main advantage over the prusik is that it’s releasable under load. This makes it popular for rappelling, especially if you need to load and unload your backup hitch while setting up top ropes, searching for the next rappel station, or just stopping to get a #selfie. One reason people are averse to the autoblock is that it only works if you extend your rappel device away from the hitch. Since the hitch is set up below the rappel device, it must be given enough room to “grip” without running into the bottom of the device, which can cause it to not engage.
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People commonly use a sewn sling or a PAS to extend the rappel device away from the belay loop. While this is definitely the safest method (and something all AMGA guides are trained to do), an alternative solution is to tie the autoblock onto your leg loop. This usually places it far enough away from the rappel device that it can engage properly. A word of warning though: not all harness leg loops are designed to hold weight, a leg loop buckle could easily come undone. Know your equipment and test this out on solid ground before using it during a climb. Check out this video from the AMGA on setting up for a rappel using an autoblock hitch.
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3. KLEMHEIST
Often misspelled as “kleimheist” and subsequently mispronounced “climb-heist”, the klemheist is similar to the prusik, but can be tied using cord or webbing (unlike the prusik and autoblock). Many people prefer to ascend ropes using the Klemheist since it grabs as well as the prusik, but releases easier under load. One more thing to note: while the autoblock and prusik work in any direction of load, the klemheist only works for one direction of loading. Be careful that you tie it correctly for the direction you need! Used in many rescue scenarios, the klemheist is a great hitch to have in your back pocket.
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For a close look at how to tie these hitches, check out this video from the AMGA:
Overview of climbing hitches
| Hitch | Pros | Cons | Most Common Use |
| Prusik | Multi-directional load-bearing; very strong grip. | Impossible to release under load | Rescue scenarios and backup on a fixed line |
| Autoblock | Multi-directional load-bearing; releasable under load. | Less grippy than the other two | Rappelling backup |
| Klemheist | Can use cord or webbing; easier to release than a prusik. | Not multi-directional (load bearing only “downwards”) | Ascending a rope and rescue scenarios |
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