For the last 50+ years my family has spent a week every summer camping in Big Sur, CA. My grandparents started the tradition when my father and his siblings were children—family legend has it that they only stopped going briefly in the 70’s “when the hippies took over.”
But we aren’t the only ones for whom Big Sur is a special place. People have been traveling the winding coastal roads for decades to reach “the edge of the world”, with its redwood forests, secluded beaches, hot springs, eclectic people, and awe-inspiring cliffs that plunge into the Pacific Ocean. Our Local’s Guide to Big Sur includes the very best places to eat, stay, hike, and adventure. It includes tips from locals about Big Sur’s hidden gems, plus options for those on a budget.
Important things to know about Big Sur:
Road closures
Because of its remote location, Big Sur sometimes experiences road closures due to mudslides, downed trees, or other issues. For example, a 2017 mudslide made a bridge unstable and much of Big Sur was cut off for months. Always check on road conditions before traveling to Big Sur, especially during the winter.
Cell phone service
Cell phone service is spotty in many (if not most) areas. Wi-Fi is available at many restaurants and cafes, but don’t expect cell service for most of the hikes, campgrounds, or locations described in this local’s guide to Big Sur.
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Gas
While gas is available at multiple locations throughout Big Sur, it’s significantly more expensive than surrounding communities. Since you must (currently) travel from the north, fill up in Monterey or Carmel before heading down to save some money.
Pfeiffer Confusion
The Pfeiffer family were instrumental during Big Sur’s development. You’ll see a lot of landmarks named after them, and it can get confusing. There are three main Pfeiffers, all of which are referenced in this local’s guide to Big Sur: 1. Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, which is home to Big Sur Lodge, a state campground, and the popular Big Sur River Gorge. 2. Pfeiffer Beach, an incredible beach just across the road from the Big Sur Ranger Station. 3. Further south is Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, most famous for McWay Falls, a must-see attraction if you’re nearby.
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Local’s Guide to Big Sur: The Best Places to Stay
Our local’s guide to Big Sur features the best places to stay, including quaint campgrounds, local short-term rentals, unique yurts, and 5-star luxury hotels.
Big Sur Campground and Cabins
A great family campground with a playground, basketball court, and easy river access.They have a general store, laundry, inner tube rentals, and amazing soft-serve ice cream. Reservations usually necessary.
Tent site: $65 – $80
RV site: $75 – $90
Camping cabins: $135 – $180
Cabins: $200 – $440
Fernwood Campground and Resort
Cabins, a motel, RV sites, tent sites, and the Fernwood Bar and Grill. Close to the river and access to lots of hiking with free Wi-Fi at the bar and grill area.
RV/Tent site: $70 – $100
Adventure tents: $175 – $195
Tent cabins: $130 – $190
Forest Cabins: $290 – $340
Motel: $180 – $235
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Big Sur Riverside Campground and Cabins
Excellent river access for all sites and cabins. Hot showers and laundry.
Tent site: $70 – $75
RV site: $75 – $80
Cabins: $160 – $275
Pfeiffer Burns State Park Campground
State park campground with nearly 200 sites. Easy access to both the river and to the Big Sur River Gorge hike among other hikes.
Tent sites: $35 – $50
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Deetjens Big Sur Inn
Rustic comfort with simple luxuries. Established in 1930, Deetjen’s Inn is on the National Register of Historic Places. It has no internet, phones, television, or cell phone coverage. The attached restaurant is a must-stop even if you don’t stay here.
Rates: $115 – $290
Big Sur River Inn
The River Inn has everything right nearby. Lodging, restaurants, a pool, general store, a bar, gift shops, even a gas station. It’s the first thing you’ll see driving into Big Sur from the north. Even if you don’t stay there, grab a burrito or bring your own lunch and picnic on the grass or grab a seat in the river (yes, IN the river).
Rates: $175 – $475
Short term rental options
Big Sur is full of little hideaways and unique accommodations by locals offering short term rentals. Check Hipcamp, VRBO, or Airbnb to find the perfect spot for you.
Ventana Big Sur
Just check out their Instagram page to fall in love with this place. It’s a sophisticated, rustic, and luxurious 5-star hotel. Incredible views, beautiful rooms, and the Sur House restaurant. They even offer an awesome glamping option.
Rates: $400 and up
The Jewel in the Forest
A truly unique Big Sur experience. The Jewel in the Forest is a beautiful little Big Sur property where you can stay in one of their cottages: the Dome House, Calla Lilly, Jasmine, or the Lotus. A great spot for meditation, yoga, and a variety of artistic expression.
Rates: Call or email for rates (831) 626-2876 or jewel@jewelintheforest.com
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Post Ranch Inn
Post Ranch Inn has won numerous awards for everything from its design to its restaurants to its spa. It’s the ultimate luxury Big Sur experience. Amenities include a world-class spa, 5-star restaurant (Sierra Mar), yoga, guided hikes, two infinity spas, a pool, internet, and an art gallery.
Rates: $900 and up
NOTE: The next three places are pretty far south, and technically outside of Big Sur—but they’re totally worth the drive.
Treebones Resort
A premier glamping resort with yurts, campsites, and the unique experience of a twig hut. Amenities include showers, pool, hot tub, hiking, massage, yoga, and whale watching. They also have a restaurant and sushi bar.
Rates: $95 – $595
Kirk Creek Campground
Camping on the edge of the world. With easy access to the beach, incredible sunsets, and loads of hiking at nearby Limekiln State Park, you can understand why this gets booked up months in advance. Offers various tent and RV sites.
Rates: $35+
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Limekiln State Park
Limekiln State Park offers some of the closest-to-the-beach camping anywhere in Big Sur. If you want to fall asleep to the sound of crashing waves nearby, grab one of their beach sites and sleep like a baby.
Rates: $35+
Local’s Guide to Big Sur: The “must-do” activities
Many of these activities you won’t find in any other guide. Our local’s guide to Big Sur recommendations come from firsthand experience. Don’t miss out on these one-of-a-kind opportunities while you explore everything Big Sur has to offer!
Henry Miller Memorial Library
“The Henry Miller Memorial Library is a nonprofit arts center, bookstore, and performance venue, championing the late writer, artist, and Big Sur resident Henry Miller, as well as many other, both living and dead, creative individuals living in or near Big Sur, California.” The library hosts a ton of different events including a fashion show, a short film series, writing workshops, open mics, live shows, and more. Drop by to stroll through the bookstore and grab a cup of coffee.
Coast Gallery and Cafe
Very cool one-of-a-kind art gallery and cafe. Stop by to enjoy the architecture, sculptures, artwork, and garden. Head upstairs to enjoy a meal on the balcony overlooking the ocean or grab a gift or souvenir. Only 10 minutes from Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park.
Bixby Bridge
If you’re coming from the north, you’ll cross over the iconic Bixby Bridge in order to get to Big Sur—you’ll know you’re there when you see the crowds gathered to take pictures. Be attentive as you approach it since cars stop suddenly to park. And be careful on the sheer cliffside!
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Point Sur Lighthouse
This historic lighthouse was first opened in 1889. Walking guided tours are available year-round for $12 a person. You must reserve ahead of time, and there isn’t an option to walk it on your own. A free local’s guide to Big Sur secret tip: Moonlight night tours are available on specific dates throughout the year, check the schedule here.
Essence portraits by Sofanya
Sofanya is a local artist who also runs the Jewel in the Forest (see Places to Stay above). Her essence portraits are a truly one-of-a-kind Big Sur experience. It starts with a shared meditation where Sofanya perceives what your “colors” are. Then Sofanya creates a unique portrait from these colors.
New Camaldoli Hermitage
Even many locals aren’t aware of the Benedictine monks that live along the Big Sur coast. They welcome day visitors and overnight guests. Walk the beautiful grounds, enjoy one of many benches on the hillside overlooking the ocean, check out their book store, and make sure to try the “holy granola” made at the hermitage. Overnight guests have a variety of room options and can look forward to a quiet and contemplative atmosphere.
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Tubing
Fun for the whole family. Rent tubes at Big Sur Campground and Cabins (just a buck an hour!). Local’s guide to Big Sur pro tip: start right across the street from the entrance to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. Either leave on car here or have someone drop you off, then raft down the river until you reach your starting point, Big Sur Campground and Cabins (should take you about an hour). You can always start further up river, or keep going all the way to the ocean (this has been done, but we would not recommend it since it takes a loooooong time).
Climbing in Big Sur
There are cool boulders all along the Big Sur coast with no official guidebook for any of them. The most information about climbing in Big Sur can be found here. The climbing is rugged, dangerous, not often climbed, and possibly illegal. That being said, the most concentrated climbing in Big Sur is at Granite Creek, where there are about 10 bouldering problems. While none of the climbing is amazing, it’s a fun place to scramble and you’ll most likely have the place to yourself. Coming from the north, count three pullouts on your right after you pass Granite Creek Bridge. Park at the third pull out and carefully make your way down towards the water (the trail is poorly kept and heavily eroded, so be careful). The climbs are spread out along the canyon walls. Be aware that when you’re down in the canyon, you’re barely above sea level—the waves have been known to quickly and unexpectedly fill the small canyon.
Andrew Molera Big Sur Horseback Trail Rides
An awesome way to see the Big Sur coast. Every horseback ride goes to the beach and is guided by a professional. Hear interesting local history and learn about native flora and fauna while enjoying the incredible beauty of Andrew Molera State Park on horseback.
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Hiking
Big Sur is a hiking paradise. Steep cliff sides by the ocean, redwood forests, picturesque beaches, waterfalls, and hot springs all make for a variety of incredible adventures. Our favorite local’s guide to Big Sur hiking is Hiking and Backpacking Big Sur from Wilderness Press. As with road closures, make sure to check the status of all hiking trails and parks before going. Know the hazards you’ll face, including poison oak, ticks, rattlesnakes, and mountain lions.
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Big Sur River Gorge
The classic adventure hike for locals. A short hike with some scrambling and river crossings get you to the popular swimming hole. If you’re a strong swimmer and willing to get wet, swim upstream and continue hiking, swimming, and scrambling further up the gorge. Check here for the most recent updates on closures.
Trailhead: Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park; Day Parking Lot 3
Distance: 0.5 miles (out and back)
Difficulty: Easy (some scrambling required, possible deep wading/swimming)
Directions: From Parking Lot 3, head up hill on the paved fire road, following signs for Big Sur River Gorge. Cross the river into the campground and keep heading upstream and you will find the trail “officially” start between campsite 111 and 112. From there, follow the crowds or find your way upstream until you reach the obvious swimming hole.
Soberanes Canyon Loop Trail
A very popular hike located just south of Carmel-by-the-Sea, north of Big Sur. It’s located in Garrapata State Park and is a scenic loop that passes through multiple ecosystems including a beautiful redwood grove. Check here for updates on closures. If this hike is closed or you want a shorter hike, there’s a very brief and easy loop on the west side of Highway 1, starting from the same parking lot.
Trailhead: Parking is on both sides of Highway 1, 6.7 miles south of Rio Road in Carmel.
Distance: 4.7 mile loop
Difficulty: Difficult (some very steep terrain)
Directions: Follow the only trail on the east side of Highway 1. Once you pass over a bridge, the trail splits. Head either direction for the loop. We recommend heading to your right (east) and doing the loop that direction.
Pfeiffer Beach
A beautiful public beach with incredible views and unique rock formations. Lots of parking and easy access means it gets crowded. But the beach is huge, so its easy to get away from the crowds. We highly recommend staying for sunset.
Trailhead: 26 miles from Rio Rd. in Carmel, turn right onto Sycamore Canyon Road
Distance: A short walk from the parking lot, and then as short or long as you want!
Difficulty: Easy
Directions: The road leading to the entrance is a sharp turn from Highway 1 and easy to miss. It’s a skinny one-lane road, so drive slowly. Park in the lower or upper lot and head to the beach.
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Andrew Molera Loop
Andrew Molera showcases incredible beach bluffs as well as redwood groves. Since it’s mostly flat, it’s a great outing for the whole family. Some bridge are removed during steelhead migration season, which makes river crossing more difficult (although not impossible). The hiking can be very exposed to the wind, so be prepared to hold on to your hat!
Trailhead: Andrew Molera State Park, 20 miles south from Rio Rd. in Carmel, about 4.5 miles north of Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park
Distance: 8.8 miles (lots of variations to shorten loop)
Difficulty: Moderate (but long)
Directions: You can find very in-depth directions here.
Partington Cove
With no signs or markers, this one’s a local secret. Short but steep, it won’t take you long to get down and check everything out, but prepare yourself for the trek back up. Legend has it this cove was used during prohibition to smuggle alcohol.
Trailhead: Unmarked pull out on the side of Highway 1. Exactly 6 miles south of Nepenthe Restaurant, or 2 miles north of Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park.
Distance: 1 mile down and back
Difficulty: Moderate (short but steep)
Directions: From the trailhead, start down the gravel fire road. When you get to the bottom head left for the tunnel and cove, or head right for the beach. Both are worth checking out!
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McWay Falls
Possibly the most iconic scene along the Big Sur coast. An 80-foot waterfall crashing directly into the ocean (or the beach during low tide). Local’s guide to Big Sur secret: there are two campsites above the falls that are very popular and usually booked months in advance. Check out their reservation page.
Trailhead: Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, 12 miles south of Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park
Distance: ¾ of a mile
Difficulty: Very easy
Directions: Park in the lot (and pay the fee) or park along the highway. Follow the signs and crowds towards the beach and you can’t miss it.
Ewoldsen Trail
This hike starts at Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park and is a great complement to the McWay Falls trail. If you only have one day, the combination is unbeatable. Ewoldsen offers redwood groves, sweeping ocean views, and a good amount of elevation gain.
Trailhead: Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, 12 miles south of Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park
Distance: 4.5 miles
Difficulty: Moderate
Directions: Park in the lot (and pay the fee) or park along the highway. Head east (away from the beach) and follow the signs for Ewoldsen Trail
Jade Cove Trail
An easy, flat loop along the ocean bluffs. A short, steep trail to the beach drops you right into Jade Cove where you can treasure hunt for jade (please follow local posted guidelines). This starts a bit further south than the rest of the hikes, so be aware if you are coming from the north.
Trailhead: 33.8 miles south of Pfeiffer Big Sur State park, look for a pullout with sign that says “Jade Cove Beach Recreation Area.”
Distance: 1.5 miles
Difficulty: Moderate
Directions: There are two pull outs where you can park: a southern and a northern pullout. Either one works and you can start the hike from either since it’s a loop. Most people start at the northern pullout (near the sign) and finish the loop at the southern pullout.
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Hot Springs
Sykes Hot Springs
One of the most popular destinations in Big Sur, and for good reason. A natural hot spring right next to a flowing creek in a picturesque setting. This usually means you will have to share the small tub with others (and be forewarned, in Big Sur tradition this is a clothing-optional area). The trail begins at the Ventana Wilderness Ranger Station. Despite its popularity, it’s not easy to access. A 10-mile hike one way means this is a full day trip, or plan on staying over. Another local’s guide to Big Sur Pro Tip: Camping near the hot springs is limited, so go early or during the week. The trail starts steep for the first two hours and then levels off. But it’s a total of 5500 feet of elevation gain, so come prepared. Check here for the most current conditions.
Esalen Institute
Esalen Institute is a retreat center most famous for its cliffside hot springs. They offer over 600 workshops throughout the year including yoga, massage, mindfulness, and mediation. Want a local’s guide to Big Sur insider secret? While the workshops are pretty expensive, there’s an option to use the hot springs even if you’re not signed up for a workshop. They offer public night bathing from 1am-3am most days of the year (weather permitting). You have to reserve ahead of time and the cost is $35 per person.
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Local’s Guide to Big Sur: The Best Places to Eat
Big Sur has a lot to offer in the way of culinary delights. From world-famous high-end restaurants to local burrito joints and everything in between, our local’s guide to Big Sur has you covered.
| Restaurant | Summary | Price |
| River Inn Burrito Bar |
|
$ |
| River Inn Restaurant |
|
$$ |
| Deetjens Big Sur Inn |
|
$$ |
| Nepenthe |
|
$$$ |
| Cafe Kevah |
|
$$ |
| Big Sur Roadhouse |
|
$$ |
| The Sur House |
|
$$$ |
| Wild Coast Sushi Bar |
|
$$$ |
| Coast Gallery and Cafe |
|
$$ |
| Big Sur Bakery |
|
$$ |
| Sierra Mar Restaurant |
|
$$$$ |
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