Half Dome is one of the most recognized rock formations in the world, rising nearly 5,000 feet above the floor of Yosemite Valley. The climbing route Snake Dike (5.7R) follows incredible natural features to the top of Half Dome, making it arguably the long, moderate climbing route to do in the Yosemite (followed closely by Royal Arches). It’s on many a climber’s tick list and is a rite of passage for all Yosemite climbers. Adventure Protocol Ambassadors @colepsmith, @megmac336, and @grantnsmith recently took a trip to Yosemite National Park to do this classic climb.
Snake (H)ike
Because of its 6-mile approach, mostly easy climbing, endless slabs to the top, and a 9-mile descent, there is a reason climbers “lovingly” call this route Snake Hike. We woke up at 4 am in Upper Pines campground. We were hiking by headlamp at 4:30, hopping on the John Muir Trail. Vernal and Nevada Falls passed by unseen (but not unheard!), our headlamps being our only illumination. Our first glimpse of Half Dome was around 7 am as the sun began shining on the peak. We took a left off the John Muir Trail immediately after passing Liberty Cap, onto a faint climbers trail The trail would appear and disappear, but by heading straight for the ever-growing Half Dome, and then cutting left once we hit it, we found our way. 5 hours and 2500 feet of elevation gain later, we arrived at the bottom of Snake Dike.
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Thoughts on safety
Snake Dike is well-known as a moderate trad climbing route with easy climbing. While this is accurate, it cannot be stressed enough that it is dangerous pretty much the entire climb, with severe fall potential throughout. The leader should be a confident 5.8 leader. And with the high-consequence slabs at the top–which are usually climbed unroped–every member of the party should be at least a confident 5.7 climber and understand the risks. The climb is also long and a real calf-burner, especially after completing the approach. Be in shape before attempting this climb.
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Climbing Snake Dike
When we arrived, a party was just starting the first pitch. After watching them struggle through the traditional start (a 5.7 polished slab traverse that can have swing potential for the leader and follower) we decided to try an alternate start we had seen described online by Mountain Project user Floyd Hayes.
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Pitch 1
We started to the left of the regular start, bypassing the traverse. We slung a tree (and placed a cam), then climbed through some easy slab to reach a crack. The first pitch either ends on a ledge here where you can place a few cams (#.4-#.75), but we continued up to a set of bolts (recommended if you have a 60m rope).
Pitch 2
We traversed right on 5.5 fingers, running it out a bit before being able to place a medium cam in a small slot. We hopped onto the dike, clipped a bolt, and climbed a short section before reaching a two-bolt anchor. Unless you place pieces along the 5.5 fingers, there is definite swing potential here for your follower (although it is very easy climbing).
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Pitch 3
Having skipped the 5.7 traverse start, the beginning of Pitch 3 was the definite crux in terms of difficult climbing moves. We clipped a single bolt and then moved left about 15 feet across 5.7 slab. A fall here would be a hard swing potentially right into your belayer. At this point we hit the dike that you follow for the majority of the climb. There are anchor bolts here, but it is much better for your follower if you don’t clip these (otherwise it creates serious swing potential for them during the 5.7 traverse). We continued up about 30 feet (5.4R) until we hit a bolt. This is the first case of serious fall potential, and it only gets worse from here. We climbed on (more 5.4R) until we reached two anchor bolts.
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Pitch 4
140 feet of 5.4R with a pair of bolts about half-way.
Pitch 5
The last bit of “hard” climbing. 5.6 and 5.5 friction and fingers lead to 5.3R dike climbing until a small belay ledge.
Pitch 6
5.3R, super long runout to a single bolt, some steep but juggy moves of 5.4, then the anchor bolts.
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Pitch 7
A traverse right across 5.2 slab to 5.2 fingers until we reached a roof and built a gear anchor (small to medium cams).
Pitch 8
Went left to bypass the roof and headed up easy 5.2 territory. Got over the roof and continued until we could build an anchor.
From here it’s steep 3rd and 4th class slabs until the top. Continue to rope up if you want, or unrope and climb carefully. While the climbing was easy, a fall would be potentially fatal.
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Descent
Descend via the normal cable route and prepare yourself for the knee-crushing 9 miles of downhill back to the Valley floor
Gear
The key here is lightweight. You don’t want to bring any more gear than you will absolutely need. Every person will need to carry a pack. As for clothing, make sure to keep sun protection in mind, since you will be exposed for most of the day.
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Climbing Gear
- Bring the lightest weight 60m rope you have.
- 4-6 medium cams (we brought Black Diamond C4’s #.4 – #1 and Red and Black Metolius Ultralight Master Cams).
- 6 Alpine draws or double length slings.
- Normal anchor materials (2 cordellettes and a few locking carabiners)
- Comfortable climbing shoes.
Food and Water
We brought about 3,000 calories per person, mostly bars, trail mix, gummies, and dried fruit. It was about perfect–we got back hungry, but not so much that it tired us out or hurt our performance. We brought a little less than 3 liters of water per person (temps were in the mid-70s) and it was also nearly perfect. A little more would have been better.
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Snake Dike Synopsis
We arrived back at our campsite 17 hours later, at 9:30pm. The descent was long and arduous and we passed Nevada and Vernal falls again in the dark. The last few hours of the descent we were like zombies. Tired, sore, hungry zombies. If you had asked us at that moment if it was worth it we would have definitely said no. But writing it now (calves still sore days later), it was a “Type 2 Fun” adventure: Not fun in the moment, but fun to remember later. For any serious Yosemite climber Snake Dike is a must-do, but probably not something you want to do every weekend.
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